One Hundred and One Things NOT to do When Visiting the Sovereign Hawaiian Nation

At the risk of coming across like some scolding parent, instead of writing all about the wonderful two weeks I just spent working hard and playing hard in Hawai`i I decided instead to vent about some of the bad behavior I saw from fellow visitors to that great nation. I figured some informing was in order.

DISCLAIMER: I know that none of my friends would ever do any of the things that I am about to describe here, so please know that my admonitions are NOT meant for you! But if you know someone who could use some educashun, please pass this along. And thanks for being open to learning some things about Hawai`i that you might not know, and that hopefully will help to inform your trip should you, like me, be lucky enough to visit.

I titled this post “One hundred and One Things NOT to do When Visiting the Sovereign Hawaiian Nation” for several reasons. One, to play off the typical vacation guide “101 things to do on Kaua`i” “Hawai`i: Your Vacation Playground!”etc.

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I think that’s part of the problem, that state and local governments promote tourism in a way that makes people think that their own Personal Paradise ™ awaits them in Hawai`i.  Like, it’s a tropical Disneyland made just for them and their enjoyment. That sets up expectations that leads to some of the bad behaviors we witnessed.

And two, I wanted to remind (or inform) everyone that yes, Hawai`i was a sovereign nation until it was overthrown in 1893.  I know all about this because my husband curated an exhibit on the topic for his museum, here is a link to the symposium he held:

The story of what happened in Hawai`i is way worthy of a post of its own, I encourage you to read about the history of the overthrow and of the current state of the Hawaiian sovereignty movement. Some good sources include

I think that it’s important to know that history, especially when visiting Hawaii. It might help tourists to understand signs like these:


All that to say that maybe an understanding of Hawaiian history will help people make better choices when visiting Hawai`i.

A basic understanding of Hawaiian culture might also help. Actually, as I wrote those words I thought to myself: “No what is most important is a sense of respect, and common sense”. Doug wrote a paper on the importance of rocks in Hawaiian culture, how rocks, as part of the body of the islands themselves, are older siblings to the Hawaiian people. But someone doesn’t necessarily have to know all the details to know that it is NOT OK to set up camp on rocks that have what is clearly some kind of offering on top, and a petroglyph that is clearly visible:


Shouldn’t it be common sense to know that you shouldn’t lay your wet bathing suit out to dry on such a rock? And while rock stacking and cairn building might be ok in some parts of the world, it is definitely NOT ok to move rocks there. Even better, don’t move anything that doesn’t belong to you.

Oh, and camping is prohibited in certain areas for a reason, not to kill your buzz. Same with other rules and regulations. For example, don’t park where there is clearly a no parking sign. It’s there for a reason.


Don’t enter a cave when there are CLEAR signs saying not to. The caves in Ha`ena are some of the most sacred places in Hawai`i…climbing into them and taking selfies is the height of disrespect.

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But we saw that. We saw a group of people at Ke`e beach, standing in the water with floats and open beers, like it was their own personal pool party. Another time Doug heard someone giving instructions on how to “take” live coral…just put it in a baggie with some sea water. That was not cool! Same with hiking Makana mountain in cleats…not cool. Not only is it dangerous, but again, it’s a really sacred space.


I’m sure there are examples of things like this all over the islands. And with social media and our increasing need to document everything I would imagine that it’s only going to get worse. Anything for that epic Instagram shot.

Some other things are more subtle. It’s really important to understand that generations of people were raised in places like Ha`ena, but now they can’t afford to live there, and forget about their children being able to afford to. What must it feel like to be from a place, to have roots there, and see it become the playground of the rich? To know that there are ancestral burial grounds deep under the million dollar gated mansions that line the shore?

(And UGH for signs like these:


All over Kailua on O`ahu .The above sign was not in Kailua but is similar to what I saw.  Several were on roads that led straight to the beach, NOT through private property. It’s important to know that the beaches in Hawai`i are all public. Beach access, that’s another story.)

The people of Hawai`i, the native Hawaiians, are doing what they can to malama (take care of) their `aina (land). It must be heartbreaking to see it taken over by developers who then sell to people who have no sense of the place. I don’t mean to imply that all the rich newcomers are assholes and that all native Hawaiians are saints. And many of the problems in Hawai`i go way back to the time of the overthrow. The sugar and pineapple barons also played a nasty part, hijacking water and holding onto land that could be used to house people.

But from what I see, many of the newcomers could come down outta their privilege and learn some things.  In one of his interviews Doug learned that 42% of Hawaiians have moved from Hawai`i because they can’t afford to live there. I don’t know the answer for that, but there has to be one. People shouldn’t have to work 2-3 jobs to be able to afford a small rented house in their homeland. I know it’s bad in places like San Francisco; that many people are forced to move hundreds of miles away just to be able to afford a house. But Hawaiians are being forced to move thousands and thousands miles away. And many of those who stay face some real hardship. And their beaches, where they used to spend time fishing and being with family, are teeming with tourists. No place to park…

As I wrote in the beginning of this piece, I know I’m going to come across like some holier than thou haole. (Although I guess that’s what I am! HA!) But only because I have been treated so well by the people of Hawai`i, Kaua`i especially, and Ha`ena most especially. I want them to be able to continue to malama their `aina, and I hope that this can be my way of helping. Doug and I are thinking about starting a web site on these very topics, how to visit Hawai`i in a way that is pono (just, right), or how to give and receive Aloha – not just what not to do, but what we all can to do to help. How to maintain a responsible, culturally sensitive tourism industry, which is necessary since many native Hawaiians depend on it. His project, Pacific Worlds, is his attempt to try to document the culture, the sense of place, before it’s swallowed up. Hopefully our site will be a good companion piece specifically for Hawai`i. So please stay tuned. Suggestions/critiques/thoughts and comments welcomed. Maybe we can crowd source? Send us your Hawai`i tourist horror stores…along with any good news.

In the meantime, mahalo for reading. Aloha nui loa.



A Canoe Set Sail for Paris…

To those of you who have read my silly little blog (thank you!) you might recall this post with the way too long title: “Such a Short Strange Trip It’s Been…Or, How I Was On My Way to Paris and Landed in Hawaii (Metaphorically Speaking)” that told the tale of how I was just about ready to move to Paris when I met the man I called “Hawaii Boy” and who is now my dear husband. I talked about how I had planned to move to Paris but had fallen in love instead, and wrote that we were in the process of buying a house in Baltimore (which we did, and now we have a dog too!), and I talked about how happy I was (and still am). Towards the end I summed it all up with this line: “I hope that my story has the intended consequence of helping anyone who cares to read it. Helping in the sense of pointing out just how serendipitous life can be, how important it is to plan, and to have dreams, but how equally important it is to keep an ear out to what the universe it saying.”

Yes I am a big believer in the universe, and my ears are always attuned to what it is sayin. So imagine my surprise this past November when it appeared that the universe was finally gonna let me have my dream! I remember it like it was yesterday…I was sitting in the lovely jury room in the Baltimore City court-house when I received an email from said husband that said “Hey, check this out”. It was an email from a friend of his that asked if he or anyone he knew wanted to work in Paris, as an opening was about to open up at UNESCO headquarters, in Paris. I wrote right back, saying “Do NOT tease me, especially when I am in jury duty”. He didn’t write back so when I got home I was all about to give him a piece of my mind for taunting me in such a way when he said “I’m going to check it out”. For reals. Continue reading

Mauritius…C’est Merveilleux

I haven’t written in my blog in a YEAR! It was a memorable one…I got married.

Dawn and Doug's wedding-61

I went to Paris twice, once for my wedding shower which was totally surreal,


(Me and my Muriels in the Luxembourg Gardens…awww!!)

again in October which was short but sweet.


I went back to Hawai`i, kind of a working honeymoon, which included a return to the awesome Ha`ena as well as a visit to a live volcano on the Big Island.


(whew we are HOT!)

I feel remiss in my blogging. So I am making up for it (hopefully, for anyone who cares to read my silly little ramblings) by trying to recount my recent girls’ trip to paradise aka Mauritius, hon.

Backstory, my PPBFF Candace left me and Baltimore behind in August of 2016 to follow her college-age dream of joining the Peace Corps. She’s in Botswana, and although I feared that I wouldn’t see her for two and a half years, I have actually had the privilege to spend some quality time…first in PARIS where she surprised me by coming to my awesome shower, combat boots and backpack in tow. 🙂 And then again in Baltimore.

But I wanted to spend some time with her in her part of the world.  Hmmm, where to go with just a week off?  I thought about Capetown, then Durban…Mozambique…but when Candace mentioned that she knew of some PCV’s (Peace Corps Volunteers) who had gone to Mauritius and had loved it,  Mr. Google convinced me that THIS was the place I wanted to see. So despite never having been to Africa,  Mauritius won my travel roulette, especially when I discovered how cheap it was to stay there. (And for those of you wondering where in the hell is Mauritius, that’s ok, I really wasn’t sure either. It’s an island located about 1,000 miles off the east coast of Africa, in the Indian Ocean, past Madagascar. In other words, very far from the US!)

I found our lovely apartment on HomeAway, what a bargain!!


A whopping $39 per night for  two bedrooms, a kitchen, living room and a beautiful porch



where we spent many contented hours drinking coffee and wine, having dinner and chatting away. The landlord was one of the nicest people I’ve ever met, and his beautiful wife cooked for us 3 nights! Fish and chicken curry (which was THE best food we had the entire time) and Nargisi Kofta, or meatballs stuffed with eggs. And fresh mangoes couertsy of our German neighbors…heavenly.

But of course the star of the show in Trou Aux Biches is the BEACH. We packed our beach bag every morning and walked the lazy five minutes  through town






to the public beach,





We spent many many many hours floating in the turquoise water. People the Indian ocean rocks! So peaceful and relaxing.

We used our privilege to snag some deluxe beach chairs courtesy of the Trou Aux Biches resort (that cost almost 10 times more than our sweet abode), until we got kicked off by some Germans. Oh Well….


We walked the powdery sand in search of street food like mines frites from Pierre’s Noodles, $2.00 of deliciousness


And Jus de Friuts Frais (sic)



We also splurged on a lunch in Grand Baie, fresh seafood and margaritas for margarita day! All served with a killer view




We had steaks and wine from South Africa too, and fresh shrimp curry and Mauritian rum…mmm

We did alter our beach food drink routine to venture into Port Louis for a day, We went to the covered market hoping to find some handcrafted Mauritian art but instead found lots of cheap goods from China. But we made up for it with some really delicious biryani and soup.



Port Louis was hot and a bit crowded


So we were happy to have ventured out but so glad to return to our slice of paradise



We were blessed to have had the opportunity to experience a Hindu festival while we were there. Maha Shivaratri, the festival of Shiva, where thousands of pilgrims walk from all corners of  Mauritius to a sacred lake at Grand Bassin. We walked to the local temple and were allowed to watch some of the preparation ceremonies.


While I’m sure there are some conflicts and issues amongst the population, from what I could see and what I read all of us could take some lessons on embracing multiculturalism and religious harmony from the Mauritians.  There are no indigenous peoples on Mauritius, just descendants of the slaves who were brought to work the sugar plantations and the people who brought them. (UGH colonialism!) Mauritius was a French colony then the Brits took over, but I read that the French stipulated that French had to remain the official language. Of course I couldn’t understand very much, except when I eavesdropped on some French tourist. Anyway, all that to say that I found the people to be very welcoming and kind, and was happy to see the temples and mosques and churches side by side in the sun.


We learned some island insider facts from a dear friend of a dear friend of mine who has lived on Mauritius for many years! We met when my friend introduced us in college. It was nice to reconnect and visit her in her lovely home, I neglected to take pictures but merci Lee!!

Sigh. The trip was WAY too short. I miss the warm ocean breezes, the lazy days spent chatting about everything under the sun, the people, the food, and oh my, the sunsets…


And I especially miss my dear Candace…bisous ma cherie, merci for hanging out with me in paradise. On to our next adventure!!  xoxoxo

From Honolulu to Hanalei to Haena…Or, How I Fell in Love With Hawaii in 10 Days

OK OK I can see it now…I can see why Hawai῾i is on everyone’s travel bucket list. It truly is a spectacular, beautiful tropical paradise kind of place.  I knew that I would enjoy my trip there – who wouldn’t? But I had no idea that Hawai῾i, especially Kaua῾i, would find a place in my heart…Paris graciously moved over some to give her some room. Merci, Mahalo.


Went from snowzilla to this!!

I know that I was amazingly fortunate in that I had many experiences that I most certainly would not have experienced if I had come here alone, as a tourist. So I am incredibly grateful to Doug for bringing me along and for showing me his world, his place.  I am so glad that I had the opportunity to work beside this man that I love on a project that is so precious to him, and now to me.

We were in Hawai῾i to work on this:, which, as it says in the about page, “is a vehicle for cultural preservation and the perpetuation of indigenous traditions in the Pacific. In this role, it presents Pacific Islands—from Pacific-Islander perspectives—to the entire world. Whether you are a tourist or a scholar, this site will transform your understanding of Pacific cultures and environments. Second and more specifically, Pacific Worlds comprises an indigenous-geography education project serving Hawai‘i-Pacific Schools.”

Doug started the project in the early 2000s and traveled to Hawai‘i and several islands in the Pacific, interviewing many people about their land, their history and their culture. He documented all of the interviews and while he was a professor at Towson University he continued to work on the site and created curriculum.  Around 10 years ago he took a job as Senior Geographer at the Smithsonian’s Museum of the American Indian and this project had to be put on the back burner while he worked on other things (including his recently-opened exhibit on Hawaiian Sovereignty.)  Thankfully Doug was able to return to the Pacific Worlds project due to the generosity of the US Forest Service, which gave him a grant to update the website with a focus on current conservation efforts in Ha῾ena, which just happened to be the first community he completed for the site. So…off we went!

We spend our first few nights in Honolulu recovering from jet lag.


Waikiki Beach


MMM Mai Tai


Me with my ginger lei (still in my east coast plane clothes!)


Sunset on Waikiki

We played tourist in Waikiki and Doug gave me a whirlwind tour of some of his favorite places and past haunts around Honolulu, we had drinks and connected with some dear friends and in what seemed the blink of an eye we were off for Kaua῾i, and Ha῾ena.


Kauai from the air

We settled into the sweetest digs, Auntie Sunny’s oceanfront cottage which was a score! As it was quaint, charming, so close to Ha῾ena with this amazing view AND was cheaper than any of the closest hotels or condos (in the not so charming Princeville).


Auntie Sunny’s oceanview cottage


Aunti Sunny’s cottage ocean view…sigh

But  we didn’t have much time to take in the views as we were off as soon as we arrived to the first of many meetings with the community. This one was held at the beautiful Limahuli Gardens.  Doug gave an overview of what we were there to do and we learned about many of the exciting projects that were happening all around us in Ha῾ena.


Limahuli Gardens Visitor Center and Office


Taro fields (Lo’i) in the garden



Some of the beautiful tropical flowers

I could write a book about everything I learned about Hawai῾i and Kaua,’i and Haen῾a on this trip  (as if this blog post wasn’t already getting to be book length!) It’s a particularly special place both from a historical view and a spatial one.  I can’t begin to tell the history but I can show the beautiful land. I interpreted (hopefully correctly) from all the things I learned that Ha῾ena is both a place (῾aina, or land) and a community (hui), which are all are part of the ahupua῾a of Ha῾ena. Here’s a pretty good description of an ahupua῾a that I found on the internets:

“One of the most salient features of the native Hawaiian social structure was the ahupua῾a, a traditional land and sea tenure system where local communities and resource systems were organized. Typically, an ahupua῾a encompassed an entire watershed, from the top of the ridge to the deep sea. Resources were managed in a hierarchal fashion and tasks were stratified socially and by occupation. Each individual ahupua῾a was managed by a local leader, a Konohiki, who was granted the authority by the ruling chiefs. Different uses of land and sea occurred in different areas of the ahupua῾a. The upland forest was reserved for gathering wood and hunting, the fertile valley floor was used to grow taro in irrigated pond-fields called lo῾i, rivermouths were encircled by walls for fishpond aquaculture, and expert fishermen, po’o lawai’a, oversaw offshore fishing.”

One of the many things that is striking about Haen῾a is that you can see the linkage between the mountain and the valley and the sea…you can see how the land flows from the mountain (in this case Makana mountain)


That’s Makana in the distance

to the sea,


so you get, viscerally, how interconnected it all is, and you can understand how the people of Ha῾ena lived on and off of the land.

As Doug wrote previously, what makes Ha῾ena unique is that much of the land is controlled by Limahuli Gardens and the Ha‘ena State Park. Unlike many places in Hawai῾i it is relatively undeveloped (as I mentioned there are no big resorts there), so the community was able to work out an arrangement with the state that allows them to take ῾care of, or malama, their ῾aina. They formed a 501c3 in 1998 called the Hui Maka῾ainana o Makana whose mission has been “to restore Hawaiian values and stewardship practices.”

Because much of the traditional lo῾i (land for growing taro) area of Ha῾ena was intact within the boundaries of the State Park,  the Hui Maka῾ainana o Makana worked out an agreement with the state that allowed them to clear the land and plant taro. And they worked for over ten years to convince the state to pass a law creating a Community-Based Subsistence Fishing Area in Ha῾ena. The law, which was the first in Hawai῾i and was finally passed last year, sets limits on the amount of certain fish and shellfish that can be caught or harvested and  places restrictions on the types of fishing equipment and methods that can be used, and it prohibits commercial fishing – in other words, it relies on generations of knowledge on how to fish sustainably.


In a similar vein, the Limahuli gardens are working to bring back native forests and plants. They have restored a native forest and have greatly reduced the invasive species.  And they also have planted a gathering garden, where members of the community can come to gather plants that are used in hula and other ceremonies.


Surreally, that was my world for 8 too short days, talking to members of the hui about their lives, the lives of their ancestors, their land, their traditions…everything. We talked with Makaala, who works for the Hanalei watershed and who is a tireless defender of both the environment and of the culture. We talked with Carlos and Samson, the two guides to Ha῾ena that Doug featured in the first Ha῾ena web site, so full of knowledge about the history of Ha῾ena (Carlos just wrote a book about Ha`ena and  until not all that long age Samson rode horses and rescued stranded travelers on the Na Pali trail on horseback…not for the faint of heart!) We worked the lo῾I with Keli῾i and Nalani, who invited us to their house to talk about their lives growing up fishing and farming in Ha`ena and how much it means for them to retain a connection to the land. We talked to Presley and Uncle Tom, kupuna and fishermen who were instrumental in getting the CBSFA passed.  So much knowledge, or na῾auao. Then there were the people at the Limahuli Gardens, Kawika the director who has been working so hard to bring back the traditional trees and plants and practices. And Lahela, who shared stories of growing up in Ha῾ena just as she shares her culture with visitors to the gardens. We also went to Lihu῾e to interview Andy Bushnell, a historian who gave us an overview of native Hawaiians first contact with early explorers on Kaua῾i. And the other people at the garden and in the hui, so many other wonderful people…

So I was able to be in this beautiful place, surrounded by lush green gardens and fragrant flowers and the mountain and sand and the sea and the smell of the ocean, all the while listening to the history of the land and the sea from people with a history and deep deep connection to the place. I was most honored to have been invited to work day at the lo῾i, one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen, so lush and green. It was a day I will never forget, mud and all…



People pay hundreds of dollars for this mud wrap



Women with scythes

The whole experience was indescribable (I know that I have already taken too many words to try to describe it and still I don’t think I could begin to describe the feelings).  And my feelings ran the gamut. Beauty and wonder and awe and humbleness and gratefulness.


But there was also for me a sense of sadness and anger when I thought about the economic unfairness of it all.  Practically none of the members of the community live in Ha῾ena. Some of them have chosen to live elsewhere, that’s true, and as I mentioned much of the land in Ha῾ena itself is now part of the garden or the state park. But there are houses and properties all along the north shore of Kaua῾i…it’s just that the vast majority of them are super expensive.  I know that I know very few people who could afford to live anywhere near Ha῾nea now, myself included.  The sad truth is that many of the people in the community can’t afford to go back to live there either, even if they wanted to. And those who were able to retain their land couldn’t afford to stay because the high priced real estate around them raised their property taxes so much that it priced them out. It just makes you think.  Are those people who buy those million dollar beachfront estates interested in the history of the community in which they live?  Sigh…

But, despite that part (which I just can’t help thinking about – as I told my co-workers you can take the girl outta CEPR but you can’t take the CEPR outta the girl),  it was so super awesome, as my daughter Jordan would say. When we weren’t busy interviewing we were off photographing various places for the website:

including this heiau that was set in the most spectacular setting I think I’ve ever seen.


Doug chanting permission to enter the heiau


We went to Hanalei to interview Makaala



Downtown Hanalei

and then went for a swim in the striking Hanalei Bay.


We ate poke and poi (made in Hanalei and even in Ha῾na! I know it’s an acquired taste but I liked it).


Fresh Hanalei poi!

We had lau lau


Our gift from Keli’i and Nalani

and drank rum and pineapple juice. We went swimming at Ke῾e beach


and hiked a teeny tiny bit up the Na Pali Coast trail.


And the best part? I get to go back, in July. Hallelujah!

The day we were leaving we headed out to the gardens to give back the key to the gate to the lo῾i, which had graciously been loaned to us by Presley. The waves were super high that day, so we were looking at the beach as we drove by and we saw Uncle Tom, looking at the waves too. Doug pulled over to take some more pictures for the website and Uncle Tom and I had a chat about the weather and about fishing and I told him about the Chesapeake Bay and rockfish and blue crabs, and how my dad loved to catch blue crabs and we just chatted and looked at the sea. And I felt Ernie there on that beach. It was sweet.

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A tres bientot Ha῾ena. Aloha…Aloha nui loa.



A Field Trip in France is Fun!

While one can most certainly spend all one’s time in Nice when one is lucky to find oneself in Nice, it seemed crazy to ignore the other splendid sites of the Cote d’Azur. So one day I asked my travelin’ companion to look at a map and to choose someplace for a day trip. The only requirement was that it had to be accessible by the most wonderful Cote d’Azur bus line, which costs all of 1 euro 50 and travels up and down the  coast as well as up into the mountain villages.

Since we knew that we wanted to visit a town on the Italian side of the Riviera another day, he suggested that we visit Peille, (pronounced PAY) a town about an hour (NE) by bus from Nice. I agreed that it looked like the perfect choice and after an hour of the most zig-zagiging, hair-raising scary turns…up up up some mountains (they don’t call them the ALPes Maritimes for nothing), we were there.  Me a little worse for wear, just happy to be off the bus and hoping that it would be worth the take-your-life-into-your-hands bus ride. I kept telling myself that the driver has done this over and over and over again so no need to clutch my companion’s arm so hard that he probably still has marks. All that to say, we made it, yay!



Yes worth it indeed



A charming village blessedly not swarming with other tourists (said knowing that we are tourists and there were some fellow tourists there, but, well, you know what I mean, I hope).




We wandered through the charming cobble-stoned streets looking for a place to eat, as it was lunchtime, and well, really most of our time was spent thinking about eating and drinking or actually eating and drinking, truth be told. I had of course searched the internets for reviews of restaurants in town and unsurprisingly (remember the not so touristy bit above) there were few and far between. But there was a recommendation for the 20 euro lunch at Cauvin Chez Nana and since the only other place we passed didn’t seem all that inviting we gave it a shot.

I’m not sure how to describe the place…quaint and kind of charming in a quirky way on the one hand, and something just a bit off somehow on the other. The food wasn’t bad; some of the dishes were actually very good (including my obviously homemade richly sauced daube)  but the service was Incredibly SLOOOOW, and absent minded to the point where, closing in on 2 hours in and no sign of the third and final dessert course (we were the only customers for the better part of the day), I asked the server in my best French if we could please just have the check and said that we’d pay the full price without dessert. She pretended not to hear me, slapped the menu down and pointed for us to choose a dessert, which, feeling like we had no say in the matter, we did. Resigned to spend the rest of the day inside the once charming but now suffocating dining room we were at least cheered when she brought us a strange bottle with some kind of homemade digestif, gratis. A kind of grappa or marc with unidentified herbs inside.




Several shots later we decided it wasn’t so bad there after all and we managed to wolf down our desserts, pay our bill and make our escape, laughing all the way.

Of course after all that food, wine and grappa, our original idea of hiking through the mountains to the pedestrian only really charming perched town of Peillon was totally out of the question. Besides, we only had about an hour before the LAST bus of the day was leaving and we were warned that we’d better not be one second late. So we hiked just a bit into the mountains and breathed in the glorious mountain air and basked in the sunshine and marveled at the beautiful mountain flowers.

We even found an ancient ruin!

Everything was bright and blue-skied!! Wheeee!! (and yes I’m quite sure that the digestif had nothing to do with our happy giddiness…)


We reluctantly made our way to the bus stop, full of mountain happiness (and ok, wine and grappa), climbed back on the bus and dozed on the somehow not as scary ride back down the mountain to the welcoming, as always, Nice.


As happy as we were to be back, we were glad that we had ventured out.

And next up, a field trip further afield…

It’s Been Said Many Times Many Ways But It’s True: Nice IS Nice!

Shhh, Paris…I cheated on you just a little! I’m sorry to say that I am also kinda in love with Nice. She (has to be a she) is just so beautiful, and colorful, and happy. I was happy to be there again, thanks to a good friend who hooked me up with someone who rented me a fabulous apartment, in a perfect location in the Old Town. It was on the first (FRENCH) floor, up a scary-steep set of ancient stone steps.


But worth the exercise.
We explored the city with all of our senses, as Nice demands.





Of course the first visit was to the beach. Nice’s beach is made up of stones, which takes some getting used to . But the Mediterranean is so gorgeous, you can’t help but follow your nose to the sea.




We also walked to the port. Run, don’t walk, past the ostentatious yachts and toys of the rich and wanna be famous, to the other side, where these sweeeet fishing boats live. Gimme this any day. So colorful, so beautiful, so Nice.


And of course we indulged in the marvelous, indescribable Nicoise cuisine.

If you find yourself in Nice, run, don’t walk, to the fish market at Place Francois. Find the “fish lady” and order the Pissala. Anchovy paste on steroids. She seems mean but is a softie underneath. Word.

And, you must try all of the other Nicoise specialties. Socca, that seemingly boring simple chickpea flour crepe thing that you can only get in Nice. Go to Chez Pipo! Or if you are in the thick of the Old Town and are hungry (Like us)and  Lou Pilha Leva is insanely crowded (it was),  Bella Socca actually does a great platter of Socca, tapanade, fresh anchovies and farci, that other Nicoise specialty (think stuffed mushrooms, but also other veggies). SO good washed down with that only found in Nice wine, a delicious Bellet rose, on a rickety table crammed under the roof to escape the one shower we encountered in Nice. All that memory for 18 e.

We also had a beautiful plat de mer at the charmingly ancient Cafe de Turin, full of salty oysters and fresh head on shrimp. and some sea snails, delightful with a crisp not sweet muscat .


And not to overlook the land, we also had an enjoyable evening at at restaurant serving, as my companion likes to say, loudly, MEAT! La Rossettisserie seems like your total tourist trap in the old town, but it has remarkably good food for an incredible low price. We had tender grilled lamb, a super wine in a beautiful old cellar. Just a perfect evening.

We also really enjoyed our first meal at Le Comptoir du Marché, another non-touristy place in the Old Town. So fresh, so simple yet so delicious. The perfect welcome “home:..


And last but certainly not least. we had a fabulously perfect light dinner of tapas at Tote et Mamie Charlotte, a sweet cafe in a sweet spot right off the Place Rossetti, owned by some really sweet women. Just perfect people watching on a balmy Nice evening. Sigh.


After all that eating, we so enjoyed hiking high above the Old Town. It was a perfect temperature, a cool breeze and all that glorious sunshine.




And yet the beach called us back, every night.



Nice, we know that we will be back.You, too, enter the soul and don’t let go.

Such a Short Strange Trip It’s Been…Or, How I Was On My Way to Paris and Landed in Hawaii (Metaphorically Speaking)

Whew! It’s been a long time since I posted in this blog. And the events of the past year prove the age-old adage that a LOT can happen in 12 months. Sometimes you coast along in life, the years blending into one another, and then WHAM! You’re hit with life altering changes, all happening in a matter of a few short months. But as someone who is near and dear to my heart these days likes to say, “ain’t that what livin’s all about?” And I answer, as I always do, mais oui.

I left off last January, in Paris, communing with my women. There have been two trips to you know where since then: one last May that was pretty much like the one in January (only warmer),

How I feel in Paris, after my jump master Nancy

How I feel in Paris, after my jump master Nancy

full of time spent with ma best guuurl

Me and ma guuuurl xo

Me and ma guuuurl xo

and my other dear ones in Paris:

Picnic with some fellow hounds...bliss

Picnic with some fellow hounds…bliss

bahn mi lunches in secret gardens, long late night chats over tranches and wine,

It wasn't blue crab but thanks to the smuggled Old Bay it was close enough...

It wasn’t blue crab but thanks to the smuggled Old Bay it was close enough…

crab cake dinners, staying up to greet the dawn, vegemite for breakies, new faces

My favorite bartender in all of Paris. Miss you Salim!

My favorite bartender in all of Paris. Miss you Salim!

and sweet familiar ones.

well, it's the Queen's leg and not her face, but you get my drift...

well, it’s the Queen’s leg and not her face, but you get my drift…

Time spent wandering my streets and filling my soul.

always my picture

sigh, ma belleville

sigh, ma belleville

That lovely, bittersweet trip made me more determined to try to find a way to call Paris home, permanently. I came back full of plots and homework on how to possibly go about it, given to me by one of the ex-pat dear ones (who has since moved even further afield). Yes, I was bound and determined to find a way to move to Paris, sooner rather than later. Nothing was gonna keep me from living my dream!

And of course as these things happen, the universe took me in another direction…one I wasn’t looking for, for sure. And of course in retrospect I am so glad that I opened my ears long enough to hear what the universe was telling me. I didn’t plan on getting into a relationship. Was NOT looking for one. But there must have been some magical Hawaiian spirit calling my name, as one found me.

Me and HB

Me and HB

And it soon became apparent (to me and to pretty much everyone who came in contact with the two of us) that this relationship was meant to be. It has evolved organically. And I didn’t feel like I made a decision to not move to Paris. It just no longer seemed like an option. And that was ok. More than ok.

We had a fine summer. I learned to lash together and to sail a traditional Hawaiian outrigger canoe! (in the Chesapeake Bay, Middle River no less!).

me and the canoe

me and the canoe

there she is in full sail

there she is in full sail

We even swamped once (that’s a tale worthy of its own post). Summer became Fall, which turned to Winter. I moved myself and my things into his lovely apartment in the trees in Mt Washington, And in December, over Christmas, I took him to Paris (trip number 2). thanks to the generosity of some of my above-mentioned dear ones who graciously loaned us their fabulous apartment for a week.

now there are 2

now there are 2

He's digging the vin chaud

He’s digging the vin chaud

carnavalet selfie!

carnavalet selfie!



And so, here we are. I’ve learned many things from my Hawaii Boy (as my friends and I used to refer to him, and I still do when it fits). I look forward to learning a whole lot more. He’s one of the sweetest people I know. He brings out the best in me, he encourages me, he loves me and he cares for me. He makes me laugh. We iron out whatever differences and conflicts arise, asap, and get right back on with our sweet life. We’re in the process of buying a sweet house, not in Paris or Hawaii but home, right here in Baltimore City, hon. I am content.

I hope that my dear friends continue to walk the journey with me, as I asked in a previous post. I hope that my story has the intended consequence of helping anyone who cares to read it. Helping in the sense of pointing out just how serendipitous life can be, how important it is to plan, and to have dreams, but how equally important it is to keep an ear out to what the universe it saying.  And I hope that this new year marks a new chapter for everyone in my life, past, present and future. I want nothing but peace and happiness for everyone I know and love.

I’m still scheming on how I can travel and make the most of my life now while I figure out how to retire…just not sure where that will be. Maybe still France, or maybe Hawaii, or maybe I just might stay in my hometown, who knows? I just know that I will do my best to enjoy the ride.